Yosemite y el fuego que alimenta las catedrales del bosque
En tres de las cumbres menores de Yosemite —las más altas rondan o superan los 4.000 metros— hay tres bosques añejos de secuoyas gigantes, esas majestuosas catedrales del bosque, que siempre “viven” la llegada del fuego como un mal menor y, en cierto modo, liberador. No es que lo deseen, pero tampoco les importa demasiado que se produzcan incendios en su entorno. Los naturalistas estudiosos de esta especie única han llegado a la conclusión de que el fuego, a las secuoyas, les libra de sus enemigos más próximos —arbustos y árboles que las rodean—, con lo que la acaparación de nutrientes en “exclusiva” les permite alimentarse mejor y seguir forjando su crecimiento y leyenda.
Hay secuoyas, como el gigante Grizzly —2.700 años de vida aproximadamente— que superan los 70 metros de altura; algo así como el equivalente a un edificio de 20 plantas. Pero es que en la base pueden llegar a tener 30 metros de circunferencia. Están entre los árboles más grandes de la tierra. Sus raíces pueden llegar a penetrar hasta cien metros de profundidad buscando agua y nutrientes. Y otro dato a tener en cuenta: en su vida de siglos, las secuoyas han soportado y sobrevivido a intensos incendios que se repiten en ciclos que van de los 5 a los 25 años.
Arde Yosemite. Este es el titular que algunos periódicos y los informativos de radio y televisión de medio mundo repiten estos días. Arde, sí. Pero pensando en esas catedrales del bosque que acabo de ver y tocar hace dos semanas tan sólo —algunas con costras de viejas heridas, testigos de los fuegos que tuvieron que soportar—, me invade una sensación..., una mezcla de angustia y consuelo. Angustia por la muerte de cientos de miles de pinos de los millones que alfombran Yosemite; pero consuelo porque entiendo que, aunque el fuego devastador acorrale a las majestuosas secuoyas, éstas van a tener otra oportunidad para “librarse” de los enemigos que las "acosan". El fuego, aunque las deje maltrechas, y en algunos casos heridas de muerte como puede apreciarse en alguna de las fotos que aquí se reproducen, también será su aliado esta vez.
Según las últimas noticias, más de 60.000 hectáreas han ardido ya en los últimos nueve días. Pero no hay que alarmarse; Yosemite tiene vida para rato. Con una extensión de 3.081 km2, equivalente a la provincia de Álava, más del 90% del parque se considera todavía “zona salvaje”. Yosemite alberga en sus valles, laderas, cumbres y ríos una gran diversidad biológica. En él cobran vida cerca de mil quinientas especies vegetales y animales. Los osos negros son una de sus estrellas; osos que, por cierto, conviene no perder nunca de vista; las guías recomiendan estar muy atentos a “los ruidos” extraños, pues a más de un visitante le han dado un buen susto. Algunos, los más atrevidos, han desvalijado algún que otro coche (por dejarse sus dueños una ventanilla abierta), o han asaltado tiendas de campaña al dejarse sus dueños alimentos.
Este fue el primer parque nacional declarado como tal en los Estados Unidos. Ya en 1864 el senador californiano John Conness propuso que se trasfiriese el valle de Yosemite al estado de California para que pudiese ser “utilizado y conservado en beneficio de la humanidad”. Ese mismo año, el presidente Abraham Lincoln, firmó una ley en el Congreso por el que se cedía al estado californiano el valle y los bosques de su entorno a condición de que “fuese para uso público, recurso de recreo... inalienables para siempre”.
Ahora Yosemite es mundialmente famoso. Desgraciadamente, el fuego, estos días, lo ha puesto de actualidad otra vez. Pero son sus secuoyas gigantes, las paredes verticales de granito que rompen las cumbres y que hacen “las delicias” de los escaladores, los glaciales y los ríos cristalinos, las cascadas, la flora y la fauna... lo que hace que miles y miles de visitantes se acerquen a él. Las cataratas de Yosemite, con 782 metros de altura, son las más altas de América del Norte y las terceras del mundo. También en este valle se encuentran las cataratas Ribbon que, aunque con un volumen de agua algo inferior, ofrece a los asombrados visitantes un salto vertical de 492 metros.
Yosemite dista tan sólo 320 kilómetros de San Francisco; eso lo hace aún más asequible para los habitantes de esta gran ciudad. Pero los viajeros llegan aquí desde todas las partes del mundo. Por sus puertas de acceso pasan cada año más de 3 millones de personas.
Son ya casi 78000 las hectáreas que han ardido. Espero que no todas estén en Yosemite, porque si es así, suponen el 25% del parque, es decir, una auténtica catástrofe. De hecho, un incendio de estas proporciones es, esté la superficie quemada en parque nacional o no, un desastre tremendo. Para hacerse una idea del tamaño de la zona quemada, baste decir que la extensión del término municipal de Madrid es de poco más de 60500 ha, y eso que gran parte del mismo (casi 18000 ha) son zonas verdes (Casa de Campo y Monte de El Pardo, principalmente). Por eso, referirse a «la llegada del fuego como un mal menor y, en cierto modo, liberador», aunque solo lo pueda ser para las secuoyas, me parece, cuanto menos, un poco irresponsable.
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Acepto “qq” ¿este es su nombre? la crítica y reconozco que, en el artículo, me he dejado llevar por la pasión (veneración) que me despertaron las secuoyas al verlas. En ningún caso el que a éstas “pueda venirle bien” el fuego justifica que se queme una sola planta a su alrededor. Me sorprendió ver las huellas de los numerosos fuegos soportados por este árbol a lo largo de siglos y también las explicaciones al respecto que leí en algún cartel que daba cuenta del fenómeno… Pero, dicho esto, sepa que para mí, como para usted, supongo, ver arder el monte es una experiencia desagrable y que más me conmueve y entristece.
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